Hiking in November

November? It was in the high-70's where we went hiking today. Dan chose the hike from his northern CA hiking trail book and said that we would go 6.3 miles. When we got to the trail head behind the Fire Station in Cool, south of Auburn, we found out that there was a mountain bike race in progress. So we chose another trail leaving from the same place but our 6 mile hike ended up being 10 miles. For Rusty's version of the day (and more dog photos) see his blog. This was very pleasant weather for hiking but it is NOT what we should be seeing in November. There was green grass that germinated with the rain that came over a week ago, and is growing well with the warm weather, but it's all going to die if we don't get more rain. That is what happened last year and the hills remained brown and gray with no feed for livestock or wildlife.  Although the situation is dismal if it stays dry, the country is still pretty and the day of hiking was invigorating.  There was no water until we got to the river and the dogs were certainly glad of that. This is the North Fork of the American River.  We ended up at the river at the site of the proposed Auburn Dam. I didn't remember any details about that, but looked up the information after we got home. Construction began on this dam site in the late 1960's. In 1975 there was an earthquake that was determined to be the result of the weight of the water behind the Oroville dam that is 50 miles north of the Auburn site and was completed in 1968. This caused a delay in the dam construction while the plans were redesigned. Ultimately, cost, potential seismic risks, and relative benefit of the dam site caused it to be abandoned although there were several attempts to resurrect it. I read one report that said that this dam would have been three times as wide as the Hoover Dam but the reservoir that would have filled the North and Middle Fork canyons would hold only 8% of the water behind Hoover Dam.  I didn't take many photos of the remnants of the dam construction site, but the massive undertaking is obvious. This photo is a detail of the one above, looking across the river. I assume that those white spots are bolts of some kind. The whole wall is covered with cyclone fence as is the wall to the right in the photo above.   This is a view up river of the dam site. Toyon berries. It was a good day of hiking. The dogs are tired tonight.

Road Trip - Days 8 & 9

After leaving Imperial Stock Ranch in Oregon we were heading home. There are a lot of landscape photos at 70 mph in this post. I could have left out the blurry ones, but...hmmm...then I wouldn't have all the impressions that I want to remember. Sorry. It makes me appreciate other people's very sharp photos that much more.    The trusty green truck that Dan got for $5 when his dad moved to Hawaii. Landscape off Hwy. 97 in north-central Oregon.    Sunset over Klamath Lake in Oregon. It was dark as we were looking for a place to camp along the road in California. I realized later that Dan had an ulterior motive for wanting to make it as far as Military Pass Rd., off of Hwy. 97 before it joins up with I-5. If you want to hike the north or east sides of Mt. Shasta that is where you find the trailheads and he wants to do that trip before he goes back to teaching in August. We found a place off the main road, ate what was left in the ice chest, and went to sleep. This is what it looked like in the morning.This is the view from our "campsite".It's always a thrill to see Mt. Shasta when you drive into California from the north. The peak is 14,162' and Shastina to the west is 12,330'. 

We spent the morning driving  the roads that circle Mt. Shasta to the east and finally join up with the highway to head south. We stopped several times at campsites and trails along the beautiful McCloud River. 

Finally on the last leg home. No more stops. Passing Shasta Lake, indicative of California's severe drought. This is only June and the lake should be filled with snowmelt. Dry hills typical of the Mediterranean climate of California. Most parts of California have dry summers and wet winters. We depend on the winter rain and snowfall to fill reservoirs and replenish acquirers to be able to produce the abundant agricultural crops that California is known for.  With irrigation this is what the Central Valley looks like. This is a rice field. This land is usually brilliant green from about October into April. The brown landscape is normal for unirrigated land. However, last year we had an early rain (September?) and then nothing. What grass germinated died. Many ranchers who depend on the fall grass to feed their cattle and sheep had to sell their livestock. The next rains came in January and they were meager. There was not enough rain or snow, especially following other years of relatively dry conditions, to catch up. You can read about the affect of the drought on California's farmers and ranchersat Voices from the Drought on Facebook. Harvesting hay.Sunflowers at 70 mph. The dry hills are typical of California in the summer. The valley crops are grown with irrigation water.

Well, I got sidetracked into a semi-documentary. These photos in Yolo and Solano Counties meant that we were getting closer to home.

Here is who greeted us when we pulled in (my camera doesn't seem to be doing any better at 0 mph).

We had a wonderful trip but it's good to be home.

Road Trip - Day 6 - Another Day at Yellowstone

In the last post did I say how cold it was when we went to bed the first night in Yellowstone? The cold plus the bison in the campground make me wish that I didn't have that middle-of-the-night call of nature. However, maybe that's a good thing because it was starting to rain and I shut the tailgate and the camper window. When everything is shut up it is warmer inside, but it is also stuffy and the windows get wet with condensation. There are trade-offs and stuffiness is probably better than feet in a wet sleeping bag especially when the temperature dips into the 20's. The green truck is too old to show the temp but that's what my iPhone said when I asked. So instead of rain we had snow during the night. Not a lot, but nevertheless, snow. Once again we didn't linger over our breakfast of instant oatmeal but got in the truck and turned the heater on. I chose way too many photos for this day's blog and I should cut some out, but I probably won't. I like blogs that are mostly photos...

Our plan for this day was to drive the northern loop starting with Mammoth Hot Springs and ending with the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.Not far from the campground we saw our first grizzly bears - from the safety of our truck. (Even though I have been told by blog readers that the bear we saw in Grand Teton was a grizzly bear and not a black bear we thought it was a black bear at the time and I prefer to think that we were hiking with black bears, not grizzlies.) The one on the left was eating a carcass of something and was wearing a collar. They were being watched by a park biologist. I wonder if the park personnel always keep track of bears that are collared and monitor them when they show up near a road? One thing that we learned quickly is that being a Park Ranger in Yellowstone means Wildlife Traffic Patrol. Do you know an easy way to spot wildlife?Just look for parked cars and people walking along the road.It didn't take long to find more bison... …and more bears. This one wasn't alone. I know, the sagebrush is more in focus than the bears, but that may be my last grizzly bear photo.

It was still early and when we got to Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces the weather was not looking good. It was cold and windy and during our walk along the boardwalk trails it started snowing. But the changing conditions only made the views more dramatic. 

  We didn't hike any long trails on this day but there were many shorter hikes. There were people stopped on the road watching a black bear when we got out of the truck to take a half mile trail to see Wraith Falls. Dan was trying to decide if the bear was still entertaining people on the road or had retreated in our direction. Note bear spray with orange cap in the backpack pocket.

There are several one-way roads that you can use to get off the main road. Blacktail Plateau Drive is one of them and the scenery is majestic. To my surprise Dan asked if I wanted to stop and take flower photos. I am usually teased about this habit. This one is wild flax. Phlox.

I wish I knew what this flower is. From a distance it looks like single blue flowers. It's only when you get up close that you see that it is lots of little tiny flowers.We stopped at another waterfall trailhead and Dan took this photo of a 1936 touring van that he had just read about. These were canvas topped vehicles used in many of the national parks. They seated 14 people and in cold weather (at least in the northern parks) they provided Pendleton wool blankets for the passengers. At least some of the vehicles were used into the 1990's when they were just too old to keep running. The Park Service replaced the old vehicles with modern Dodge vans but the visitors wanted the old touring vans. So they are on the road again but Ford kept just the top part and replaced the chassis (and all the important things like brakes) with new parts. 

Speaking of vehicles it seemed as though each of the parking lots at the main attractions had it's own sentry. This one was eating crackers.

It was getting late in the day by the time we got to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. There are several access points and trails on both the north and south sides. We knew that we didn't have time to hike all the trails, but we went to  all the overlooks and walked a few of the trails. We took Uncle Tom's trail to a viewing spot of the Lower Falls. Writing this blog I'm in a tank top and shorts with the fan on and it's hard to remember that just 10 days ago I was bundled in two layers of wool, my Carhartt jacket, wool hat, and gloves. Originally this trail had over 500 steps and rope ladders. Now it has only 328 steps and no ladders. The trail no longer takes you all the way to the bottom but you still hear and feel the power of the water cascading over the rocks. I love the green color of the water here. This is a scene of the canyon and the river taken from another viewing area. Simply majestic. I don't think that I would have spotted this osprey nest except that some other people were looking with binoculars. See what I mean? The top photo is a close-up of this one.Another beautiful evening. Again we got back to camp at dusk, ate a couple of cans of beans and went to bed.

Next post: On the road to Oregon

Road Trip - Day 5 - Yellowstone

The mosquito situation in camp was no better than the night before so we didn't linger in camp on our fourth morning. We took just enough time to get our food out of the bear box and for Dan to make his coffee and we got on the road. There are plenty more trails to explore in the Tetons and I hope to make it back there some day. But this was our next stop and we had two days to see as much of it as we could. Not far into the park we saw our first bison. Initially we didn't stop for much  because we needed to find a campsite in one of the non-reservation campgrounds. After we secured a spot we were free to plan the day. There are two main loop roads in Yellowstone and we spent the first day exploring the southern one.  This is the Norris Geyser Basin, not far from our campground. That steam on the left was rising out of the ground with the sound of a roaring a furnace. The trail traverses this valley and there are steamy, boiling, gurgling features everywhere. I took Geology my first quarter of college and decided that I would not be a geologist. I am definitely more of a life sciences type, but I can be awed by these spectacles even if I don't know the physical science behind them. This landscape is all about color, patterns, bubbles, steam, explosions.    Bison footprints.    Then there is the wildlife.On the way south towards Upper Geyser Basin (where Old Faithful is) traffic was stopped on the road. Going around a turn we saw the cause. Bison were walking alongside and on the road. Why not? It was certainly the easiest way to get from one meadow area to another, especially where this canyon narrowed. Passengers scurried ahead of their cars (leaving drivers) to get a better look.Eventually it was our turn to pass the three dozen or more bison as they turned from the road and moved into the forest.  Osprey over the Upper Geyser Basin. We got to the Visitor Center and Old Faithful just minutes before Old Faithful was due to erupt. After watching we faced a furious wind as we walked a couple of miles along the boardwalks and trails that traverse the Basin, seeing more of this amazing landscape.  It was getting later in the day as we completed the loop road to get back to camp. The road crosses the Continental Divide a couple of times in this area. Living on the West Coast we always think of all water ending up in the Pacific, but crossing the Divide twice in a short distance made me think about it.  We had been following two major waterways, but they end up in different places, the Snake River flowing westward and the Yellowstone River flowing east. As dusk falls even more animals are visible, although not easy to photograph. It was dark by the time we got back to camp for dinner. I walked up the hill to the bathroom and a woman who was waiting while her cell phone charged pointed out to me what looked like … nothing…well maybe more black than the rest of the dark. There were two bison munching on grass right next to an RV. In the dark it was as though there was a Black Hole. I would never have known they were there. The woman told me that the bison had just walked around the bathroom and stopped to graze there. At that point I decided that the weak batteries in my headlamp were not adequate for the task of walking around Yellowstone at night. 

No moths or mosquitoes at this campsite, but it was dark when we got back, we were out of firewood and it was cold. We quickly cooked our spaghetti and some hot chocolate and went to bed.

Stay tuned for Day 6.

Road Trip - Day 4 - More of the Grand Tetons

 It was cool in the mornings at Grand Teton National Park, but the main reason to suit-up was to keep the mosquitoes off. They were awful--not very conducive to hanging around camp in the morning. That was not our plan anyway -- too many places to see, too little time. As soon as Dan had his coffee we were ready to go. Look who came to the campground for breakfast. Our first hike for the second day in Grand Teton NP was around String Lake.  Yellow-bellied marmot.At several places there was evidence of avalanches that took out all the trees in their paths and...  …obliterated the trail in some places.  Crossing the river at Jenny Lake we saw our first moose. This is another moose we saw in a meadow along the road on the way to our second stop of the day.

We drove to trailheads at Lupine Meadows...…where we had lunch. You can't tell from the photo but it was very windy here. Dan sprinted to chase down a plastic bag that blew quite a distance across the parking area.  One of the visitors later stopped at our truck and told him that he and his passengers gave him a "perfect 10 for style and execution". We were near the south end of the park and decided to backtrack a short way down the valley to see the National Museum of Wildlife Art. That will be a blog post by itself. Back in the park we went for another hike, this time to Taggert Lake. There are magnificent views though out the park. 

As the sun was going down we drove to the top of Signal Mountain. More spectacular views, but also an unbelievable number of mosquitoes. Late evening view from Signal Mountain.

Once again we got back to camp after dark, so we cooked our meal (spaghetti) and went to bed.

Road Trip - Day 3 - Grand Tetons

Morning of the third day.This is the Snake River near where we camped. We were on the road to Primary Destination #1, Grand Teton National Park.  Moose is the headquarters and main visitor center for the Park. We found a campsite and chose a place to hike.We purchased the necessary supplies. That's Bear Spray on the right. Yikes! These warnings were everywhere you look - at trailheads, in restrooms, on brochures. OK. I believe...But it won't happen to me? Right? (Read the fine print on this--that's scary.) We chose the Hermitage Point trail, about 9.5 miles. Here's a view across Jackson Lake. The hardest thing about writing this blog is choosing only a few photos.The stunning Arrowleaf Balsamroot was everywhere.On the trail.I don't think National Geographic will be calling me anytime soon, but it was fun to try and get wildlife photos. I think I do better with flowers because I can get closer and they don't move. But maybe this isn't bad considering that my longest lens is only 135 mm. Ruffed grouse, according to my bird book. These tent caterpillars were everywhere. They eat all the leaves in the area of their tents and can be quite devastating when in large quantities.  I didn't see any swans in Swan Lake, but there were plenty of geese... ...and a sandhill crane.   We were less than a mile from the end of our hike and nearing dusk when we came upon this in the trail.OK. Time for 2 photos and then retreat. This is an enhanced closeup of the photo above. The signs all say that the bear is supposed to go away. She didn't. We backed up and Dan fumbled with the bear spray. I had read the instructions while he was driving but I don't think he paid attention. "Flip off the orange safety catch with your thumb and then position it in spray position. No, point it at the bear, not us…" Did you know that you have only 4 seconds of spray in one of those cans? Not like the wasp spray we have around here. The bear approached a little more and we retreated more. We were less than a mile to the end of the trail and I really didn't want to go back. Then we saw other people coming up the trail towards us. These were 3 kids (well, college age) who we had seen on the trail before. It turns out that they didn't have a map with them and had taken a wrong turn to a dead-end trail, backtracked, and were running to make up time back to headquarters. They were thankful that we stopped them or they would have been running straight at the bear. When we saw a cub come out from behind a log and it was evident that this mama bear was not going to retreat we turned around and started walking the other way. It added only about another two miles to the hike for an 11.5 mile day. (Is this over-dramatic to those of you who live in bear country? I'm sure that I have hiked in bear country before, but I've never seen them. The difference is that these animals are not as wary of people as they would be other places--which is great if you want a deer or grouse photo, but not so much an animal with big teeth and claws.) Sunset over Jackson Lake.

Backpacking at the Lost Coast - Day 3 - and a surprise ending

Matt woke me up about 6 and asked if I was OK. "Sure, except that you woke me up." It seems that Kaleena had been very sick since about 1 a.m. and was not getting any better. We were about 9 miles from the truck, the last 4 of which were uphill the whole way. There is no cell service for a lot of this trek, but we happened to be in an area with Verizon service (though not AT&T). Matt talked to people in the closest emergency dispatch location about our options. Eventually the decision was made to fly Kaleena out via Coast Guard helicopter. Matt, Kaleena, and their two friends who were with us all work for the US Forest Service and Matt is has worked as a helispot manager so they were able to find a suitable landing spot and guide the helicopter in. As Kaleena wrote when she posted this photo, that blue lump in the foreground is her lying in the sand while waiting for the helicopter. Matt talked to the Coast Guard guys and sent me on the helicopter with Kaleena and both of our backpacks. That way he and his buddies and the dogs could make the 9 miles back to the truck more quickly. (Yeah, so I can't keep up with a bunch of 30 year olds on a mission!) Kaleena and I ended up at a hospital in Eureka by 10:30 a.m.  Matt made it back up the mountain in about 3 1/2 hours but still had a long drive to get to Eureka about 5 p.m. This was an unfortunate ending to our trip, but it all ended up OK. Kaleena is fine now and I had a gorgeous view of the coastline and the mountains (and certainly less wear and tear on the body). We plan to do this again, but finish the trip differently!

Backpacking at the Lost Coast - Day 2

The goal for this morning was to hike south to Miller Flat where we would spend the night. After we set up camp I did some more exploring. Walking another mile or so was no problem once I was able to ditch the pack. The scenery and flowers were spectacular.Wild iris.As I've said in other posts the poison oak can be very pretty although its definitely best to avoid it. Back at camp there was no shortage of wildlife, although I wasn't able to do much about photographing sea lions or a river otter with my 40mm lens. (I tried, but won't bore you with those photos where you have to know which speck is the subject animal.)  Kaleena was photographing one of her favorite flowers right next to camp and was about to step over a log when she saw this: It eventually slithered under the log. Maybe the beach is a safer trek.My kids could be active-wear models.This made me nervous. Matt wanted to get photos of the surf as it rolled in under his camera.Another great dinner. This time it was mac and cheese with fresh veggies followed by s'mores with your choice of graham crackers or fresh apple slices or both.Of course there was always trail mix for snacking.  

Sunset on the beach. The  colors of the sky and ocean changed to pinks and greens as the sun went down.         My tent at dusk. (Rainfly necessary this night.)

Backpacking at the Lost Coast - Day 1

My son and DIL invited me to join them and a couple of their friends on a backpacking trip to one of their favorite spots. According to Wikipedia, "the steepness and related geo-technical challenges of the coastal mountains made this stretch of coastline too costly for state highway or county road builders to establish routes through the area, leaving it the most undeveloped and remote portion of the California coast". Since Matt and Kaleena did all the planning, food prep, etc all I had to do was gather up or borrow the right clothes and gear.  We drove about 5 hours north to a campsite outside of the town of Honeydew in Humboldt County where we spent the night. The next morning we drove to the the Kinsey Ridge Trailhead to begin the hike.  I borrowed  backpack since I couldn't find mine (and the last time I had used it was about 30 years ago so this one was probably a little better). There was a four mile trek down the mountain to get to the beach. After that the trail is along the beach or through meadows just above.  Every mile or so there is another river running out of the mountains into the ocean. This was where we camped the first night.Time to unpack the dogs and relax a bit. First order of business was to secure our site by setting up the tents. There were not very many people hiking the area, but Matt and Kaleena have their favorite spots and you can't exactly reserve a site.  This is the view of the ocean from inside my tent. No rain fly needed the first night.Matt and Kaleena's friends didn't bring tents but constructed a temporary shelter from the wind with rocks and driftwood. Next it was time to explore the area and wash the poison oak off the dogs.  Matt was the chef. He and Kaleena had prepared enough veggies to last us for 3 dinners.After watching the sun set over the ocean...…we enjoyed s'mores back at camp before turning in for the night.

Pinnacles National Park, Part 2

Does a 2-day camping trip warrant 2 blog posts? For me it does because we don't do this very often. And I took lots of photos. We discovered that we did sleep relatively all right in the truck, although I was told that I had more than my share of the "mattress". Huh!

The next morning we checked the map and chose the hike for the day. This was the first leg of a 5.5 mile hike. Notice the word Condor. I took my binoculars on this hike, determined to identify a condor this day. Pinnacles is one of the few remaining areas where the endangered California Condors live and nest.

This trail winds up the mountain and behind those peaks in the distance.Getting closer to the peaks. At this point we talked to a wildlife biologist who was using an antennae to try and pick up a signal of the condors who are banded with transponders. She said that they do nest in these cliffs but today she hadn't found any. They don't always stay in the park area. We saw plenty of soaring birds but they kept turning out to be buzzards.  More of the trail.   This is coming around the west side of those peaks. The vegetation was somewhat different than that of yesterday's hike except for one plant.There was plenty of poison oak, although these trails are wider than those on our Stebbins Cold Canyon hike so it's easier to avoid. I was struck by the beautiful shades of green in the poison oak. Color abounds.

 This was an interesting trail. Notice that railing under the overhanging rock.The Park Service (or maybe it was the CCC years ago) thoughtfully provided steps (and, thankfully, railings) so that hikers could get over these rocks. The views are worth the climb.What would a hike for me be without a few flower photos? Believe me, I took many more than this even though, due to the dry conditions in Northern California, there was not the abundance of wildflowers that I think there would normally be at this time of year. I think I have identified this as a patch of California Gilia (Gilia achilleifolia).  I think that this plant is Wild Cucumber or California Manroot (Marah macrocarpa). What we noticed on this hike is that the spiralling tendrils that look like a telephone cord (yes, that dates me) start out straight. When the straight tendril touches something it coils and hangs on. Amazing. 

As usual I tried my hand at wildlife photography. Those bee photos are the only ones I'll show. The bunny, the crow, and the lizard weren't all that great. The condor look-alike perched on a branch turned out to be a buzzard when I looked at the photo close-up. 

This looks like condor country to me……but this was the closest I got to a condor.  Good trip anyway.