Road Trip to Texas - The End

In the last post we had come home to California about sunset, but we were still a long way from home. We had decided to camp at Joshua Tree National Park, but arrived there after dark. Mid-week, mid-July. No problem finding a camping site. I woke up before sunrise and walked in the desert to get some photos.I didn't have much luck with great sunrise photos but the good thing about sunrise (besides that another great day is starting) is that the light is great for other photos.

Have you ever seen so many spines?

We had slept in the truck so it didn't take long to break camp. We had entered the park from the south and planned to drive through to the northern exit.We stopped at the Cholla Cactus Garden, a nature trail constructed through the cholla with warnings to not touch...for your own safety!

I was not tempted to touch. This "jumping cholla" is known for it's tendency to attach to a passerby without much provocation.

This is what the park is known for--the Joshua tree which is not really a tree, but a species of yucca that can grow to 40 feet tall. The park protects 794,000 acres of Mojave and Colorado Desert.

We drove to Keys View. At 5185 feet, its not the highest place in the park but I think it's the highest spot you can drive too. You can see the Coachella Valley to the southwest and Mount San Jacinto and Palm Springs to the north (just out of this photo)

Joshua Tree Park has plenty more to come back to, especially if we could take a vacation in the spring. Can you imagine what it would be like for early settlers? There were miners, homesteaders, and ranchers who tried to make a go of it here and there are remnants of those homesteads and mines.  We stopped at the visitor center on the way out and saw this statue and mural when driving away. After seeing the interesting public art in southern New Mexico and Arizona I wish that I had been on the lookout for it in the earlier part of our trip.Leaving Joshua Tree NP and driving through the town of Twentynine Palms, now the plan was to just head home. California is a big place. The iPhone map showed almost 8 1/2 hours to go.

More public art...or is this private art...or art at all? Amusement.

More amusement. This is the only souvenir I bought for myself (other than the National Park patches, which someday may be sewn to something but for now are on my bulletin board with others). This bighorn sheep now is on my big loom with a collection of other sheep.California oak woodland. Many hours still to go.

 Looking west from near Rio Vista. We live on the western side of the Central Valley and those are "our" mountains in the distance.

Road Trip to TX - Day 11

This was a long day of driving. We woke up in a campground in New Mexico and ended up...well, you'll have to get through this post to find out. There are lots of photos.We camped at Organ Mountains National Recreation Area in New Mexico. Leaving the campground we stopped for a couple of photos. This is prickly poppy......and here is my first tarantula seen "in the wild". It was actually on the road and Dan pulled over to point it out. Turning back onto the main road from White Sands to Las Cruces we spotted this flower-festooned, white bike above the road. I will admit that I am annoyed by the preponderance of "memorials" along our California roads but this seemed a poignant statement.There was the water tank with a mural commemorating the space industry the previous day. We saw more driving back through Las Cruces.I googled and found that there is a website describing these murals that depict historical events in New Mexico.Back on Interstate 10 heading to Arizona.I love this giant roadrunner. I looked this up also. It's 20 feet tall and 40 feet long and after it was constructed in 1993 "it was stationed at what was then the Las Cruces Foothills Landfill, as a kind of encouragement to creative recycling projects". Now it is along the freeway for travelers to see.This is the Border Patrol Inspection Station west of Las Cruces. Can you tell what is behind those orange cones? .I guess the weren't going to ask about the two Texas peaches that were still in our truck.You never know what you'll see on the interstate. This truck was carrying a dismantled airplane.  Entering the Lordsburg Playa. A playa is a "desert basin with no outlet which periodically fills with water to form a temporary lake". No danger of dust storms today.

I was enamored by more Public Art in unexpected places.

Driving into Tuscon I spotted the Saguaro National Park on the map. We decided to take a couple of hours to investigate. Two hours isn't enough to see a 91,000 acre park that is split into two halves, one on each side of Tucson, but at least we got an impression of it.

I didn't take many photos of saguaro because I couldn't do them justice......but there were plenty of other spiny things to photograph.I caught a glimpse (and a photo) of this zebra-tailed lizard running away just as we got out of the truck to walk on one of the trails.

We drove the loop in the eastern section of the park and then stopped at the visitor center.

Look back at those couple of photos of saguaro and imagine how old they are. Saguaro depend on nurse trees such as palo verde or mesquite to survive the first several years. Each plant produces tens of thousands of seeds each year but very few survive to grow into mature plants.At least one herd of javelina (herd? flock? gang?) have figured out a safe and shady place to spend their afternoons. This is in back of the visitor center.On the road again.

 More public art? Being something of a realist, I'm not so sure about this one.

There was plenty of art around the Phoenix area which is good because we missed the cutoff to avoid the whole metropolitan area. We hit Phoenix at rush hour (slow hours).

West of Phoenix we crossed the Arizona Central  Project Canal that diverts water from the Colorado River to central and southern Arizona. According to Wikipedia "The CAP is the largest and most expensive aqueduct system ever constructed in the United States." I can't help but think, what have we got ourselves into? Whether we're talking about Arizona, Las Vegas, southern California, or Central Valley agriculture, it seems there is no going back without disastrous consequences. Our infrastructure is based on major water diversion and our population requires that these systems function. But, these are deserts, folks! Now what?...But I digress.

Dusk in Arizona.Blurry in the fading light, but I can read it.

 Sunset in California. Now to find our camping spot. No photos after dark so that will be for the next post.

Road Trip to TX - Day 10 (Part 2)

When I left off the last Road Trip post we had just entered New Mexico on the evening of the tenth day of our adventure. When we drive I have a mapbook open on my lap--not because we don't know where to go, but because it is more interesting to see the names of geographic features and points of interest that me might not otherwise know as well as figure out which are public lands where we can camp. I supplement that with looking things up on the iPhone.It was late and we needed to stay somewhere. I saw that if we veered off Highway 10 a bit we could camp in the Organ Mountains. The mountains lit by the setting sun, taken while driving up Highway 70.Water tank outside of the Space Mural Museum at the town of Organ (population about 300 in 2010).This is a photo of the east side of the Organ Mountains, taken as we drove past the entry sign. That is because I was actually looking for something a little different. I don't remember what I googled but what I found on the iPhone was Organ Pipe National Monument which, yes, does have camping, and where we figured there would still be space on a weekday night in the middle of the summer. We had to drive a few miles down the road before we could turn back to the road to the campgrounds.  A view of White Sands at the base of these mountains. White Sands Missile Range is almost 3200 square miles and the town of White Sands is at the southern end. We had considered going to the White Sands National Monument before going to Texas but it was one of those times where even though we drove "right by it" according to the map we weren't really that close. We chose to go to Carlsbad Caverns instead. Here was White Sands again. The map shows that there is a visitor center and a museum in the town that is separate from the National Monument, which is 40 miles or so further north. But this was late in the day and at this point we were on a schedule to get home.

We found the campgrounds which were at the base of the Organ Mountains. What I didn't figure out until I was looking at my iPhone later that night was that the reason the road didn't look right and the other descriptions were a bit off was that we were at BLM's Organ Mountains National Recreation Area, not Organ Pipe National Monument which is in southern Arizona. OOPS! Good thing it all worked out or we might have found ourselves trying to find a motel back in Las Cruces.

Road Trip to Texas - Day 7

On our first morning in Texas I took a walk up the road, a familiar route from my time spent here a year ago while waiting for Kirby to be born. Just as we had seen in northern Arizona and New Mexico everything was green. Summer monsoons are the norm, but there have been several dry years so this particularly wet year is a welcome change. However there can be too much of a good thing. We saw the signs on the Blanco River of the recent high water and were amazed at just how high it was. Katie and Kurtis live on high ground between Blanco and Wimberly (where the horrific May flooding swept houses and people away) so they were in no danger. This wash just down from their driveway has running water now but during the flooding was many feet higher and impassable. Hard to imagine.Western Horse Nettle All this rain has caused crop damage and postponed harvesting to the detriment (or loss) of crops in some areas. However, it sure brings out the wildflowers. I took photos of 20 different species on this short mile and a half walk and identified some of them.Green thread, Thelesperma filifolium Buttonbush, a memorable flower that I first saw last year.

Our plan for the day was to visit a sheep farm that I found on-line. I was looking for "local wool" and this farm, only about 45 minutes from Katie's house, popped up. Dan and Annette of  Stonewall Fine Wool and Lambs were gracious enough to allow us to visit, although they usually don't have on-site customers.

Most of the flock of Delaine Merino x Corriedale x Ramboulillet sheep, descendants of the original flock owned by Annette's family, were somewhere else on the 129 acres but ......the rams......and some lambs for sale were near the barn.Dan had fleeces ready for me to see and we spread them out on the table. He shears the sheep himself, although he has to fit shearing in around another full-time job.  He showed me these boxes of fleece--sorted, but unscoured staples on the left and washed wool on the right. What a transformation!The washed wool is very, very soft. I think it passed the "soft as a baby's skin" test.I was also impressed that Dan had made himself a drop spindle and taught himself how to spin.You know that I don't really NEED any more wool, but some of it followed me right into the car. I plan to share with my farm-sitting friends. Thanks very much to Dan and Annette for taking a couple of hours on their weekend to entertain us.

Next stop only a few miles up the road was the Wildseed Farm,  a  working farm that grows and sells wildflower seed to wholesale and retail customers.We were planning to go to this farm two days ago after a brief tour of the National Museum of the Pacific War in Fredericksburg, but as I explained in this post, the Museum requires a several hour visit to do it justice.

We missed the true wildflower season when all 217 acres are blooming, but there was still plenty to see.Those saguaro, barrel cactus, and beavertail cactus  and are all metal!  We walked through the Butterfly Garden.More plants from the butterfly garden.

More of the butterfly Garden.

Last we admired the fields of red and white zinnias and sunspot sunflower...

...and then piled back into the car. Kirby was a real trooper.

One more place to stop on the tour of points of interest near Fredericksburg and Stonewall, since it was on the way.

There is a visitor's center and a tour through the LBJ home but, due to one of our party being under a year old and it had already been a busy day, we opted for the 8-mile driving tour of the ranch where LBJ was born, died (1973), and is buried. Someday we'll return for the whole experience.

This is a beautiful estate, a portion of which was donated to the National Park Service (by prior arrangement) after the death of Mrs. Johnson in 2007.

A stipulation of Johnson was that this remain a working cattle ranch rather than become "a sterile relic of the past". The cattle on the ranch descend from the horned Herefords that he raised and he kept a close watch on management even during his tenure in the White House.

Road Trip to Texas - Day 6

We had done our Texas homework by watching Texas Rising, a five part fictionalized series about Texas Independence. It was not, in my opinion, great TV, but it prompted me to google the historical events as we were watching. So we felt prepared to see some of the sites that are important to that part of Texas history. Today's goal was to visit the Alamo, about an hour away.First we stopped at Katie's office and went to lunch with her co-workers. Then we drove to San Antonio.The Alamo site is an interesting juxtaposition of the old and the new. The lower stone wall  surrounds the Mission grounds.The Alamo site encompasses a block in downtown San Antonio with newer buildings rising around it.  Photography is not allowed inside the church at The Alamo. There was a long line waiting to go in, but the line moved quickly. I was amused to watch Kirby's reaction to waiting in line. It is as if there are two separate worlds--the upper level and the stroller level. There were plenty of strollers and wheelchairs to keep Kirby interested during the wait and the walk around the grounds.One of several magnificent trees on the grounds. Dan and I have commented that we have seen some of the most beautiful big oak trees while driving through Texas.

After touring the church and walking around the grounds we walked along the downtown's River Walk.I admired this building for it's colorful tower and the unusual shape.After a long drive and a lot of walking around in the heat what better way to end the day?

Road Trip to Texas - Day 5

I'm getting behind on these posts. We're seeing so much country and driving so much that I'm starting to get confused. At the end of the last post we found a motel in San Angelo which, by the way, is where I send my wool samples for micron testing. When driving into town late that night we passed the Texas Agrilife Research Center and that's when I realized why the name San Angelo seemed familiar. Had we had a plan I might have called ahead to see if I could come see their facility.

The map showed that it was only about 3-1/2 hours to our destination between Wimberly and Blanco. The landscape changed from the oil fields of West Texas to ag land. We drove through a lot of small towns, some of which were essentially ghost towns and some of which seemed to be keeping up. There are lots of beautiful old buildings in the downtown areas. In many of those towns that are thriving the downtowns center squares are more touristy than they would have been originally, But the cute shops and diners entice one to stop and spend some money...however we didn't. We're usually not that kind of tourists.I don't have many photos. I snapped several from the moving truck, but although some of the scenery ones are passable, it was hard to get much in town when driving through.I must say that the iPhone has given me a new way to travel. We like our big map books with one book for each state. I kept that open on my lap but I continued to look up towns we passed or things listed on the map that weren't there anymore. We garnered a lot of history that way. Here is one place at which we stopped. It turned out to be a small supply and feed store that has some wool items (sheepskins, blankets, socks), but they are not locally grown with the exception of some socks--sort of. The mohair in the socks is from Texas but the manufacturing is done in South Africa. The business also serve as a depot for area ranchers to drop off wool to be picked up by a commercial buyer. 

We got to Fredericksburg, about an hour from my daughter and son-in-law's house and planned to spend a couple of hours there so that she could finish her work day. We stopped at the National Museum of the Pacific War, a place I was aware of from a visit to the area a year ago . Why a museum about World War II and the Pacific in Texas? Fredericksburg is the birthplace of Admiral Nimitz who played a major role in the naval history of World War II. If you find yourself in this part of Texas I highly recommend this museum but you really need to allow a whole day to see it. Let me tell you up front that I am not a war buff and I am not a history buff. My eyes glaze over when I hear too many dates and places and although I get the general idea I am sorely lacking in detailed knowledge about World War II. I was fascinated and very moved by this exhibit. It is incredibly thorough, beginning with the Chinese/Japanese tensions in the 1930's and ending with, well the end of the war and the aftermath. You go through a maze of displays that include not just artifacts, but lots of  interactive exhibits, film, first-hand accounts, and photos in order of the action in the Pacific. I can do it justice in this brief description. It is very moving and a powerful presentation. We were totally immersed for over three hours and barely got through this one museum. There are five others as well as the outside area in the complex. Part way through I saw a sign above that showed concurrent events in Europe and I realized that we were seeing only the action in the Pacific and of course there was just as much going on in Europe. The depth of the horror and misery on both fronts is unimaginable. This is just another reminder (as if just driving through our fabulous country isn't enough) of how lucky we are to live where we do and with the freedom we have. Although World War II ended long ago and most of us aren't directly affected by war the horror is still going on for so many people in this world.

These plaques are some of the memorials to those who served or commemorating ships or crews.

We had planned to get to Katie's house earlier in the afternoon but were so overwhelmed by this exhibit that we were there until it closed. We were in Texas Hill Country at this point and, as we've seen on our whole trip, the land was lush and green from the unusual amount of rain this summer.This photo doesn't look especially green because the field has just been baled but there is a bumper crop of hay.

We got to our destination about 5 p.m. and this is why we came:

Road Trip to Texas - Day 3

On Tuesday night we drove into New Mexico  in the middle of a heavy storm. After a night in a motel we headed out for a full day of sight-seeing. We over-estimated what we could actually do in the day. It's easy to pick out all the places you want to stop when you're looking at a map but it doesn't always work out that way when you're on the road. We thought we had planned a reasonable amount of driving to see Valles Caldera National Preserve and Bandalier National Monument. After all, they are right next to each other. But as it turned out we barely got out of the car--certainly not to do any exploring of either of these parks.We began our drive by crossing the Continental Divide not far east of Gallup. The terrain is quite different than where we crossed the Divide last year in Yellowstone but spectacular in it's own way.

We drove Hwy. 40 on the way to Albuquerque and I took photos out the window.

 From the drive through Mojave National Preserve on Sunday to Wednesday (when I'm writing this post) I have been using my iPhone to look up information about towns we are passing. A continuing theme is the significance of the railroad in the history of the west and the rise (and fall) of many of the towns. We saw plenty of trains during this drive, starting with the grade in the Tehachapi's in California.

About ten miles from Albuquerque we turned north to drive a scenic loop which would take us to Valles Caldera and Bandalier. We stopped along Jemez River at a sign for Soda Dam. This dam was formed over centuries by deposits of calcium carbonate and is still forming as the river runs under it. It is 300 feet long, 50 feet high, and 50 feet wide at the base. The river was flowing fast.

 We were surprised by the muddy water, a result of the previous night's storms.

The drive continued to Valles Caldera National Preserve. I had read that this is a Preserve formed by volcanic activity and I had expected to see lava and cinder cone types of landscape as we have seen in other parks. I had no idea that we were going to see a gorgeous grassland. This is some of the most spectacular country I have seen. We stood over this caldera in awe and the photos certainly don't do it justice.According to the sign we were standing on the rim of a collapsed super-volcano, 12 miles in diameter and magma is only 5 miles beneath.

Here we faced a dilemma. We had just arrived and what a beautiful place to explore, but it was already mid-afternoon. We had another park to see, a potential errand in Santa Fe, and, as Dan reminded me, our real goal of this trip was to get to Texas by Thursday. So we passed up this beautiful spot and drove on.

We saw a sign at the Bandelier National Monument that entrance was by shuttle only and the shuttle was caught at another location. At that point we knew that we had hopelessly overestimated what we could do in a day and decided to just head for Santa Fe.

I had a thought that maybe I could find some "locally produced wool" in Santa Fe, a city with the reputation for being an art and fiber mecca. Maybe that would have worked had I known ahead of time that I was going to be there and had done some research and planning. But this last minute attempt was an exercise in frustration. Googling "local wool in Santa Fe" got me a yarn store/coffee shop combo but all they had was some alpaca yarn from a local source--not what I was looking for. I tried again and found a woman who does sell fiber from her farm but with all the recent rain she not only hadn't shorn yet, but her road was impassable.  Lesson learned. If I had planned ahead maybe I could have managed some local wool, but not at the spur of the moment. I have been on the other end of this--people calling me to say that they are in the area and would like to shop and am I home? I also thought of my friend Stephany (and her wool-related blog) who started on a journey that led her from a San Francisco tech job to shearing sheep and to Farm Club all because she was trying to find local wool in the Bay Area.

Wow! That was a digression. My frustration about overestimating our ability to see what we wanted to and then failing at the simple task in Santa Fe was on top of needing to eat because we hadn't taken time to dig out the ice chest. I felt a melt-down coming on. Then I had an emergency call from friends who were helping take care of sheep. Wait until you read about that one in the next blog. That crisis was solved (by multiple phone calls and texts) and we made peanut butter sandwiches. All was better and Dan and I drove on heading south for Roswell, New Mexico.We had been lucky with the weather the whole day. Other than the previous night we hadn't been rained on. But we could watch the weather while we were driving. There is lots of flat landscape on the drive through central New Mexico, but I am just glad to see that there is so much unpopulated land in our fabulous country. The tune "wide open spaces" continued to run through my head (as did "standing on the corner..." from yesterday).Another train view but this is a train made up of a dozen engines. We saw this the previous day also. Mulitple engines are used to pull (and push?) trains up the long grades and I guess they send those engines back to be ready for the next train. Many hours of driving later and about dusk we got to Roswell, infamous for it's UFO reputation.

Road Trip to Texas - Day 2

After being pleasantly surprised about our camping spot chosen in the dark I went on an early morning walk in the Mojave National Preserve.  Catclaw acacia.

After stowing our gear we set off north to see what the town of Kelso looked like. Have you ever seen a sign with a flashing light that cautions you to watch for tortoises? I never had and I wish I had stopped for a photo. It was one of those things that I thought I'd do on the way back but we ended up making a loop through the preserve.

First stop was Kelso, a ghost town and defunct railway depot. Most of the building in town are gone but the railway depot was restored and serves as the visitor center.This is a jail cell that was used from the mid-1940s to1985 to "confine drunks or other unruly individuals for a night or two". The placard said that there was a corrugated shell to protect from rain and sun but that "prisoners rarely spent more than one night in the jail".

The Preserve contains three major desert ecosystems--Mojave, Great Basin, and Sonoran, as well as the world's largest and densest Joshua tree forest.We wound our way through the Joshua tree and then pinyon-juniper ecosystems and also saw the affects of the previous night's rain--flooded gullies and washes. Our next stop was at the "Hole in the Wall"...

...where we did a one-mile hike that took us through Banshee Canyon.Petroglyphs on the other side of the bluffs.

I was glad to spend some time in the preserve but our goal was to get to Texas and we hadn't even left California. So we got in the truck and headed for Arizona. We wanted to see as many "points of interest" as possible but since our real goal was to get to Texas we considered this mainly an on-the-road trip, seeing the country along the way, but without a lot of time to spend in any one place.

About 10 miles southeast of Flagstaff we stopped at Walnut Canyon National Monument, but the trails to the cave dwellings were already closed for the day. However we could view them from short trail along the top of the canyon. Can you spot the dwellings just below that ridge on the right?

So that was a quick walk on the nature trail and a chance to stretch our legs and we took off again. I told Dan that we had to stop in Winslow. He was a good sport about standing on the corner. But it turned out to be the wrong corner. The green sign points to the other corner.  It turns out that there were a lot of people also standing on the corner. You almost have to wait in line for your turn at the corner. A quick stop in a souvenir shop and we got on the road again.

All the next photos were taken from the truck.

Beautiful sky and landscape.

 We needed to figure out where to spend the night but most of the land on the way to New Mexico is either privately owned or reservation land, so camping wasn't an option. Seeing the clouds and lightening to the east was the other reason to find a motel for the night and we decided to make it to Gallup, New Mexico. These shots were taken on the way to Gallup, starting about 15 miles away. Incredible rainbow.

  

More tomorrow.